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the Archives : Trend Report TOM* Magazine

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This article originally appeared in TOM* magazine issue 01 August 2014. It accompanied the F/W 2014 style guide which was also styled by Tyler Kenny.

Quilting... 

Designers added visual interest to everyday pieces with the quilting technique traditionally used for outerwear minus the added bulk. Quilted suiting and shirting was seen at Thom Browne, Tod’s, Umit Benan and Vivienne Westwood. A quilted blazer with a subtly printed shirt and dark denim makes for a sharp evening look with renewed vigour. 

 

Biker... 

This fall / winter there's a leather jacket for everyone; outsize, cropped, patterned or classic black. In recent seasons Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent runway has been the go to arbiter of Rock and Roll cool and no single sartorial piece embodies the trend like the leather biker. Wear yours in place of blazer for after dark cool or over a printed tee for a rugged and timeless look. 

 

Chunky Knits ....

As seen on the Dries Van Noten, Louis Vuitton and Phillip Lim runways.... 

Anything goes for knitwear this season - oversized, patterned, cable or turtleneck. Balance bulkier tops with slim pants and top off your look with a quilted bomber. Dress up your chunky knits with a button up shirt and tailored trousers. 

 

Red ....

As seen on the Canali,E. Tautz, and Roberto Cavalli runways... 

Standout in a sea of somber black and grey with a sophisticated red topper. Guaranteed to add a spark to your winter wardrobe pair this perennial favourite with everything from charcoal grey and black to of-the-moment cognac brown. 

 

Unstructured Topcoats ....

We have powerhouses Burberry and Louis Vuitton to thank for one of the definitive looks of the season...unstructured trenches,topcoats and all-enveloping scarves. Relaxed raglan sleeved jackets were also seen at Hackett London, James Long and E Tautz. While oversized almost blanket-like scarves were seen at Burberry, Ermenegildo Zegna and Missoni. Look for raglan sleeve jackets (where the shoulder seam runs diagonally from collarbone to underarm) in classic camel for a look that will last for years to come. 

 

 

Minimalism reigns with collarless jackets, luxe materials and pared down details. As seen at Balmain, Dior Homme, Damir Doma, and Kenzo. The key to this trend is to look for simple silhouettes done in luxurious or unexpected materials. Channel Balmain’s rock glamour meets military style by teaming a collarless zip jacket in textured tropical wool with a knit henley and faux leather pants. 






New Patterns & Proportions.... 

Seen at Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana and Yohji Yamamoto 

A slightly adjusted silhouette or subtle print is all you need for a modern take on a classic look. Reinvigorate your 3-piece suit by mixing prints and loosely tailored pieces for a look that is refined yet relaxed. When mixing prints and proportions be sure to ground your look with neutrals and avoid looking too busy by choosing patterns of a different scale with unified colours.