DAY 3 + 4 at #LCM
The final days of LCM, carried on with many of the trends spotted earlier in the week - far flung destinations, an emphasis on classic tailoring and perhaps most surprisingly of all for London Collections MEN was that more and more women were popping up on the catwalk. As gender-lines blur and many brands look to unify their presentations across the sexes we saw women in both traditional men's looks and also in flirty and flowy dresses at LCM.
One of the standout runway presentations from day 3 of LCM was KTZ. With a queue that stretched far down London's Southbank and a mob of streetstyle photographers being herded by police - you could certainly feel the excitement mounting. Once inside the venue - Invicta Plaza - models stormed the concrete underneath stone archways which added to the Berlin underground vibe. Show notes referenced "dark futurism... science fiction... romanticism of celestial maps" and this translated into PVC and leather looks, deconstructed dystopian clothes (the better to show off all those tats) and a finale of crystals, sequins and studs. The highlight of day 4 was also the final BFC show for the Spring/Summer 17 season. Surprisingly it was not a London designer that nabbed the final spot but Korean brand Songzio, who brought their signature strong suiting and knockout prints to the catwalk. With a collection inspired by designer Zio Song's own paintings - mixed with an ability to cut a perfectly modern suit (for both men and women) - it was a match made in heaven for this lover of all things printed. One part Jackson Pollock the other a Mediterranean vacation ... gestural brushstrokes were enlarged until their aquamarine hues resembled ocean waves (paired expertly with sheer cardigans and wide-cut trousers). Elsewhere the silhouette ranged from ultra-fitted and sexy to flowy, held together by the oil paint inspired paintings of Song which were seen as both placement prints and repeat patterns.
Walking into the presentation space at Christie’s in St. James’s for Turnbull & Asser it was immediately clear what the SS17 inspiration was. Racing helmets outfitted mannequins, while car panels were detailed in Pop Art and Abstract Expressionist prints, it was as though Turnbull & Asser had taken us on a wild ride to 1970’s Monaco.
Jacquard dinner jackets in repeat patterns inspired by 70’s art movements, pyjama shirts in shades of azure blue and dove grey, and mismatched gingham suits (that worked elegently and nodded to the checkered flag) rounded out this collection. Drawing inspiration from the colours of the Riviera, the English-made collection truly evoked speed and motion with every look. From sportscoats, to swimwear and pocket squares there was something to get the heart racing of every sartorial peacock worth his stripes!
The standout weave on a double-breasted suit was actually inspired by an archival tie. Chatting with designer Shaun Gordon we learned that when the tie was recreated, the weaver kept the signs of wear on either edge. Turned on it’s side and woven en masse, the faded areas evoked movement and speed, a perfect fit for the boys of the Grand Prix off the track.
Boiler suits got the T&A touch in checkered linen, but unlike most one-pieces these were anything but sloppy - notch lapels and a trim cut elevated this workwear staple to luxe loungewear.
The fast and furious collection is spot on with the current mood for sophisticated, elevated eveningwear that never appears too fussy or stuffy. Unlined suits in midweight fabrics, complete with a primary colour palette (encompassing almost every shade of blue!) added to the casual air of this traditional luxury shirtmaker’s SS17 presentation.
The highlight of Day 4s Presentations was of course, Christopher Kane. Presented at his mount street flagship store... those who follow me on Instagram know how much I love this street ;)... The collection was title Law and Order. Presented just days after the tragedy in Orlando, it seemed shirts and jackets with giant police targets and graphics of shooters printed on hoodies an unfortunate case of happenstance. However Kane has been working on the collection for 4 months, and cited his childhood growing up in Glasgow as the inspiration. Gun references aside, the collection was also full of pansy prints (a carry over from his women's resort collection) and techno reflective metallic thread that allowed garments to remain flat or crinkled. Pansies are quite the resilient flower and I couldn't get enough of them on knits and smart shirting. Gingham was also featured heavily in the collection with metallic threads running through for a wrinkled lived-in look. I'll be looking forward to updating my CK high tops into the new prints and patterns for SS17.
By day 3 of LCM , I was no stranger to the ever changing weather. The morning was sunny and by early afternoon it was raining again. I opted for this oversize white rain parka from H&Ms studio line, a Dries Van Noten Jacket, pinstripe pants, slub cotton tee, with a KenZo bag and Prada croc print shoes.
Streetstyle photos by Jennifer Lafer
All other photos : Tyler Kenny